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The Work Triangle

Tuesday, 9 September 2014 12:27:52 Europe/London

THE WORK TRIANGLE

A rule of thumb guide to planning a kitchen is to use what is known as the work triangle. The theory is that the main areas – the sink-hob and cooker-fridge should be sited so that they form an imaginary triangle. This provides the most efficient use of space and time. So in an ideal plan these three work stations should be within easy reach of each other.

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Comments | Posted in Kitchen Fitting Advice By Barry Barker

Kitchen Advice

Wednesday, 31 August 2011 12:34:49 Europe/London

When you have decided to buy a new kitchen or to revamp your old one there are lots and lots of questions you'll need answers to, like: how to measure up, good practical design, planning and finally installation.

You are welcome to call or email us with any questions you have. We are here to help and have the expertise to be able to answer all of your questions. With no obligation to buy, we dont employ sales people.

'We just love talking kitchens'

Doorbox also offers help with planning your kitchen and can supply drawings and 3D images free of charge.

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Comments | Posted in Kitchen Fitting Advice By Barry Barker

How to measure kitchen doors

Friday, 29 July 2011 12:34:50 Europe/London

DOOR AND CABINET SIZING INFORMATION

HOW TO MEASURE FOR REPLACEMENT KITCHEN DOORS.

The easiest way to measure for new doors is to measure your old ones. A door should be 5mm less than the overall height and 4mm less than the overall width to allow for clearance.

If your cabinet is 720mm high and 500mm wide then the required door size is 715mmx496mm.

Here is a list of standard cabinet sizes.

HEIGHT excluding legs.

Base units 720mm

Belfast sink base 460mm

Dropped pan drawer base 575mm

Bridging units 290mm and 360mm

Wall units 575mm, 720mm and 900mm

Midi Tall units 1250mm

Appliance Housing and Larders 1825mm, 1970mm and 2150mm

Widths both Base and Wall Cabinets. 150mm, 300mm, 400mm, 450mm, 500mm, 600mm, 700mm, 800mm, 900mm, 1000mm, 1100mm and 1200mm.

DEPTH OF CABINETS These do vary from different manufacturers. The sizes shown are doorbox cabinets which are European standard sizes. Base cabinets 560mm deep. Reduced base cabinets 300mm deep. Wall cabinets 300mm deep. Some retailers sell a non standard size cabinet that only their doors will fit, IKEA is a good example.

IF YOU REQUIRE ANY HELP WITH MEASURING OR REQUIRE ANY ADVICE THEN GIVE US A CALL 0113 216 3456

OR IF YOU PREFER SEND US AN EMAIL WITH YOUR QUESTIONS HELLO@DOORBOX.CO.UK

WE'LL BE HAPPY TO HELP, WE JUST LOVE TALKING KITCHENS.

Comments | Posted in Kitchen Fitting Advice By Barry Barker

Kitchen Fitting Jargon Explained

Monday, 10 January 2011 15:56:49 Europe/London

Abbreviations and descriptions used in the kitchen Industry.

M.F.C. Melamine faced chipboard. Most kitchen cabinets are made from this material, usually 18mm thick.

M.D.F. Medium density fibreboard is used in the manufacture of kitchen doors.

HL or Hi-line base units. A standard 720mm high cabinet requiring 1 or 2 doors 715mm high.

DL or Drawer-line base units. A standard 720mm high cabinet requiring 1 or 2 doors 570mm high and 1 or 2 drawer fronts 140mm high.

Plinth. Panel that fills the gap between the bottom of the cabinet and the floor usually 150mm high.

Cornice. Decorative moulding running along the top edge of the wall cabinets.

Pelmet. Decorative moulding running on the underside of the wall cabinet often used to conceal light fittings.

End Panels or Decor Panels. These are panels that can be attached to the end of cabinets to give a more finished and professional look.

Integrated Appliances. Appliances-dishwashers, fridges/freezers, washing machines manufactured specifically to be housed under the worktop and in tall cabinets with cabinet doors attached.

Appliance Housings. Tall cabinets with various sizes of aperture to take a variety of Appliances and combinations ie. Oven/Microwave.

Soft Close. The BLUM Tandembox integral soft close mechanism ensures the drawer closes softly and silently no matter how much force is used and the drawer boxes are fully extendable. The soft close mechanism on these runners uses the resistance of a highly viscous liquid making this system more reliable and better performing. Spring loaded, these drawer runners offer slight opening resistance to prevent the drawer from being opened when not required. These are premium quality, high performance drawer runners. This option is available with our cabinets and is factory fitted. Pretty much an Industry Standard now.

Soft Close Hinges. Either integral soft close hinge or a simple piston that clips on to the hinge, which makes the door close slowly, again quality products from BLUM.

Butt and Scribe Joint. This is used to join laminate and timber worktops at corners and is achieved using a worktop jig, router and connecting bolts, an almost invisible join is possible using this technique.

Comments | Posted in Kitchen Fitting Advice By Barry Barker

Where to start fitting your kitchen

Thursday, 6 January 2011 12:24:57 Europe/London

Where to start?

BASE CABINETS : Best place to start is in the corner of the kitchen with the base units.The finished height to top of base cabinets including legs is usually, 870mm excluding worktops, base cabinet =720mm + legs 150mm.

It’s likely you will be fitting a plinth, these are usually 150mm deep, so make an allowance of a couple of millimeters so that the plinth fits easily, so at the highest point on the floor make the mark at 873mm + thickness for flooring material. Then using a spirit level strike a line on the wall where the cabinets will be fitted.

If you have an old spirit level that’s been knocked about a bit then it’s wise to check if it’s telling the truth, place it on any flat surface, level or not and watch where the bubble settles, make a mark to be really accurate, turn the level around same side up and the bubble should settle in the same place exactly, if it doesn’t it’s time to get yourself a new level. There’s a lot of fancy laser leveling stuff out there but if you’re not used to using one stick with ‘the bubble’.

There are generally 2 types of corner unit, an L shape usually 900mmx900mm requiring 2 doors, and a corner base unit with a blanking panel to one side, requiring one door that is hung from the centre corner post.

Before putting cabinets in place there’s a couple of things to do first, fit the legs and make sure they are fully into the sockets, a gentle tap with hammer is recommended, and it’s worth adjusting all of them to the same height (150mm), if you have lot of cabinets to fit then cut a piece of timber to 150mm and use this instead of a tape, it speeds thing up, if new flooring is to be fitted then make an allowance for that by extending the legs accordingly, also fit the brackets that will be used to attached the cabinets to the wall, fixing every other cabinet will be enough but always fix the end ones.

Once you have fitted the legs be careful when turning the cabinets back over, they need to be set down on all legs at once to prevent the legs from breaking off, particularly the taller and heavier cabinets with drawers, so get help with these if you can.

Put the cabinet in place and adjust the backs legs until its level with the marks you made then the front, check its level with your spirit level, across the top horizontally and vertically (plumb) on the front and side, it’s important that your first cabinet is spot on ‘near enough is just not good enough’ if it’s not right it will have a knock on effect and the rest will be out too, make sure all the legs are sitting on the floor so there’s no wobble.

Put the next cabinet in position alongside the first and adjust legs until level, then using the clamps inside the units, clamp the two sides together at both top and bottom ensuring edges are flush and level, ‘if you can get a hold of a couple of quick release clamps(or speed clamps) these are perfect when fastening the cabinets together, as they can be used with one hand’  fasten the cabinets together using 30mm screws, or with the double headed connecting screws, supplied with the cabinets.

 place  the screws where the hinge back plate will be attached so the screw heads will not be seen when the hinges are fitted, if the hinge plates are fitted remove one screw and rotate the plate, fix then reposition, also clamp and screw the top edge and towards the back of the cabinets so they fit tightly up together, check for level and continue the same with the rest of the cabinets. When all the cabinets are in place and level they can be fastened to the wall, again every other one is sufficient.

At the back of our base units there is a 52mm void (space) to allow easy plumbing and wiring, these can be cut back if the walls are uneven.

 

 

WALL CABINETS.

 

How high should the wall cabinets be fitted?

 

If you are installing tall units ie. Larders and appliance housings then the wall cabinet’s top sits level with the top of the tall units. There are certain combinations that are the norm.

1825mm high cabinets, 575mm wall cabinets.

1970mm high cabinets, 720mm wall cabinets.

2150mm high cabinets, 900mm wall cabinets.

So the standard height from base cabinet top to underside of wall cabinets is 530mm.

Doorbox cabinets are supplied complete with concealed and fully adjustable hanging brackets and wall mounting plates. Simply place the wall mounting bracket holes down, into the slot on the bracket and measure from the cabinet top to centre of holes on the plate. Decide how high the cabinets are going to be and with your level draw a line where the wall cabinets will be, measure down from this line to where the holes for the mounting plates will be, use the level again to strike a line the whole length of the wall cabinet run. The wall mounting plates are fastened to the wall 20mm in from either edge of the cabinet. When you have the first 2 plates fixed to the wall it’s time to drop the cabinet on to the mounting plates.

Have a look at the hanging bracket inside the cabinet, there you will see 2 screw heads on each bracket, the top one pulls the cabinet towards the wall, turning clockwise, the bottom screw adjusts the cabinet up and down, clockwise for up. Before hanging the cabinet give the top screw either side a couple of turns anticlockwise this will push the bracket outward and will give you a better chance of coupling to the wall mounting plates first time.

Lift the cabinet and place against the wall so the brackets are over and just above the mounting plates, gently lower the cabinet and it should hang on the plates, give it a gentle tug outward just to check it’s fully engaged. Turn the bottom screw on the brackets now to adjust to your level line, once your there turn top screws to pull the cabinet towards the wall, check for vertical level and continue same as the base units.

If these wall cabinets are going alongside a tall cabinet that’s the best place for the first one and once level fasten through into tall cabinet as you did with the base units place screw where they will be hidden by the hinge plate.

 

 

 

 

Comments | Posted in Kitchen Fitting Advice By Barry Barker

How to measure kitchen doors

Thursday, 6 January 2011 12:11:28 Europe/London

The easiest way to measure for new doors is to measure your old ones. A door should be 5mm less than the overall height of the cabinet and 4mm less than the overall width, this is to allow for clearance between adjacent doors and the worktop.

If your cabinet is 720mm high and 500mm wide then the required door size is 715mm x 496mm.

STANDARD CABINET HEIGHTS EXCLUDING LEGS

Base units 720mm -  Belfast sink base 460mm -  Dropped pan drawer base 575mm -  Bridging units 290mm and 360mm 

Wall units 575mm, 720mm and 900mm

Midi Tall units 1250mm -  Appliance Housing and Larders 1825mm, 1970mm and 2150mm

Cabinet legs are usually 150mm giving a finished height of 870mm on a standard base cabinet.

STANDARD WIDTHS

WIDTHS both Base and Wall Cabinets. 150mm, 300mm, 400mm, 450mm, 500mm, 600mm, 700mm, 800mm, 900mm, 1000mm, 1100mm and 1200mm.

DEPTH OF CABINETS These do vary from different manufacturers. The sizes shown are doorbox cabinets which are European standard sizes.

Base cabinets 560mm deep. Reduced base cabinets 300mm deep. Wall cabinets 300mm deep.

Some Kitchen retailers sell a non standard size cabinet that only their own doors will fit, IKEA and WICKES are good examples.

Comments | Posted in Kitchen Fitting Advice By Barry Barker

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